Merry Christmas 2017


Sydney Bridge Climb

Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Healthy and Joyful 2018!!

The Summer That Would Not End
~by Barry

It seemed as though summer would not end this year. We even had to go as far as the Yukon to really bring it to an end. In this ever changing political and social climate, we hope that this season finds you and your family well, prosperous and can finally relax that surprised look on your face each time you open up the daily news.

2017 started off raining in Sacramento and elsewhere as the California drought was finally on its way to ending. We decided to cruise over to Australia in January and left rainy Sacramento to board our ship in rainy Los Angeles. Who knew it rained in Los Angeles!!?? In fact in rained so much that our departure was delayed a day. Once we finally departed it was to rough seas, and I mean rough seas, so rough in fact, that long time crew members were getting sick for the first two days. The seas were so rough that we were saddened to hear that we would not be seeing Hawaii on the cruise over, but gladdened to hear that Bora Bora and Tahiti would be substituted. We had a great time seeing those islands again and then it was off to New Zealand and Australia where we disembarked. We traveled on land in Australia for about four weeks and then it was back on ship for a cruise back. For more on this trip you realty should consult our travel blog at www.ddhogan.com. When we got back to Sacramento we were still expecting some bit of winter, or at least spring, but it turned out to be unseasonably hot. We were hopeful that out trip to San Diego at the end of the month would be to a milder climate, NOT! This continued through to November when we finally got some rain and then took off to the Yukon in December to see the Northern Lights.

We both keep busy with our hobbies and interests. Denise continues to be super grandma planning grandkid outings, doing needlework, artwork, felting, making cookies, baking club and book club. She continues to write her travel blog and trying to keep up with all of our traveling around the world sorting through hundreds of pictures, making videos and writing travel stories. She has been making pillows for everyone with great embroidery graphics and sayings to the pleasure of all.

Barry is still busy with his Rotary Club but has given up his role as newsletter editor and secretary as of July. He continues as newsletter editor for his MG club but his term ended on the local community association and with that his job as monthly newsletter, Grants Chair and Secretary. He has continued woodturning and purchased a much larger lathe so he can make larger bowls. He has made a plethora of bottle stoppers, and wood handles for everything. He has joined the American Association of Woodturners as well as the Norcal Woodturners Club so he can expand his experience and woodturning projects. Barry continues to tinker with his 1973 MGBGT taking out the dents and prepping it for paint. He says, “It is almost done.” He took Banyan on a MG Ride with the Club members along the Delta. Banyan talked the whole way down and slept the whole way back. They both had a great time.

In July, our dear friend, Caroline hosted us AGAIN, so that we could visit her as well as Jon & Kathryn and Denise’s folks. Caroline took us on a seven bridges, seven mile San Diego urban hike.  Then we were fortunate to host her up or at. We saw Beach Blanket Babylon in North Beach, the Summer of Love Exhibit at the de Young Museum , walked across the Golden Park and across Golden Gate Bridge and into Saucilito,  bicycled in Mill Valley and Tiburon and strolled Dillon Beach.

By the time August came around we got notice that rooms were available at East Oregon State University for the eclipse and we were off again. This time we drove, and drove, and drove to reach Boise, Idaho where we stayed overnight and then drove on to La Grande, Oregon, a university town like no other, really, there is not much there and it is quite unlike what you’ve heard about other university towns. The eclipse was not life changing but worth the trip. There is an eerie quite when the moon blocks the sun and it goes dark and cold; and then in two minutes its all back to normal. We had a great time, drove a lot and don’t need to do it again.

In September it was off to New York for a fall colors cruise up the eastern coast to Halifax, Nova Scotia and back. We saw some colors but not the vibrancy that you see in the photos. After the cruise we took some more time and drove to Camden, Maine where we picked up a schooner with 18 other people for 4 days in Penobscot Bay with a lobster bake on a remote island and sailing around the bay. After the cruise we toured Deerfield and Sturbridge Village to see what 17th and 18th century living was really like. We were fortunate to see the Sleepy Hollow play performed at night in Sturbridge Village, truly a great experience.

Early in December we took off for the Yukon in hopes to see the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis. Denise found a “resort” in the Yukon where we stayed in a private cabin and dined in the chalet. We had hot rock massages, great food, went dog sledding, snow mobiling and wild life viewing. We were not fortunate enough to see the Lights, but we do know what -17degrees feels like now. We think some body parts are still thawing out!

H,J,N&B in Arnold
Jungle Bird Kathryn&Jon
Polar Express, Old Sacramento

The extended family is doing well. Heather, Justin, Novella and Banyan are well. Heather continues with her art, web design and work for Sierra 2. Justin continues to work at Sutter and continues to experiment with his BBQ and other cooking techniques. Novella and Banyan are both growing like weeds. Novella is in the third grade while Banyan is in Kindergarten. Heather and Justin have been spending time fixing their house in anticipation of selling and moving elsewhere in Sacramento in 2018. Jon and Kathryn are well. Jon has moved on from the Chevy dealership to Hyundai and likes it much better there. Kathryn is close to completing her schooling for her certificate in Cardiovascular Technology . They are still living in San Diego.

We hope that you will have a wonderful and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and that you enjoyed 2017 as much as we did. We look forward to the future with more fun, family and travel.

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Yukon Adventure

November 30, 2017

Flying over the Yukon, we get an aerial view of what we are getting ourselves in for.  All is gray and white with snow on mountains and what look like frozen lakes and rivers are below us.  I unconsciously pull up my giant down jacket for a warm snuggle.  As we land on the ice covered landing strip, I see that it is just darker than the surrounding area, all darker than the white/white of the area beyond.  Any reservations about our choice to search out the Northern Lights in this place are melted when we find our host Wolfgang at airport arrivals with our name on a plaque and a huge, huge grin.  He can’t grab our hands fast enough for a warm, firm handshake and words of welcome.  We are introduced to two other guests, Bev and Sue, who are Sydneysiders traveling sans husbands to see Canadian winter delights.  I think they are also under the spell of the snow and this stunning place.

 

I hear myself exclaim aloud, “It’s like a fairytale!”

 

Wolfgang drives us onto the property that he and his wife, Renate have built and nurtured for over ten years.  The trees are white with layers of snow and the glistening of the snow on the ground makes me think that it’s a child’s shoebox diorama, a child who used too much white glitter.  The welcoming glow of the lights in the log chalet and smaller cabins of the Northern Lights Resort and Spa (http://northernlightsyukon.com)  are set off a quiet road on Renate and Wolfgang’s 160 acres, just 20 minutes out of Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada.  We arrive at about 5:30PM and it is dark twilight, nearly fully dark.  At this latitude and time of year the days are short.  Sunrises are around 10AM and sunset at 3:30PM.

 

Renate comes from her cheerful red kitchen to greet us and to show us around.  In Germany she had been a   masseuse and here in Whitehorse, she had been a  hotel manager.  Wolfgang was an electrical engineer working in the auto industry in Germany. He says that they had a dream to live here and build a place to build a small family run resort. Wolfgang designed it and did most of the work.  Renate shows us the large lounge area and dining table which seats up to eight guests.  The infrared and the Finnish saunas, massage rooms, showers and lounge area are downstairs.  Wolfgang and Renate live upstairs.  There is a fun looking teepee just outside the circle of cabins.  They also have one attached cabin and three peripheral cabins.  Barry and I go with Renate to see our cabin, which winds a short distance down a snowy path.  The cabin is toasty warm with three baseboard heaters.  It looks like a European mountain cabin with light wood furniture, a small kitchenette and a terrific fireplace in the corner.  The windows look out onto the fields of snow with lines of trees beyond.  With the German precision that one would expect, there is a typed schedule for us on our coffee table.  The fire is ablaze, hand knit woolen slippers laid out, ready to warm our feet after we place our snowy boots into the rubber tray by the door.  Large red duffle bags are at the foot of our bed and in each are arctic gear:  heavy  red coats with hoods, snow pants, heavy gloves and lighter wooly liners, massive boots and red beanies.  

 

DInner will be served shortly.  In the morning, after the eight o’clock “healthy European” breakfast, we would just have time to layer up some more to go dog sledding for a few hours.  We return to the resort for our simple soup and sandwich lunch.  During the afternoon we are booked for a hot stone massage with Renate.   

 

As Barry and I go to the lodge for dinner we, again, pass a jacuzzi outside.   Later Wolfgang explains “the Yukon Challenge”.  This would be soaking in the jacuzzi and the rolling in the snow, then repeat.  I was too astonished at the thought to hear what he said the record for how many dunk and rolls someone had done.  A fellow in his senior years challenged his 30s son and did it about 8 times?  His son did it a few more times after that.   I will not be competing.

 

Our new Aussie friends, Barry and I are joined by four other guests.  There is a couple from Texas, outside of Dallas.  They are Susan and David.  They arrived yesterday and had been sledding, which was very hard on David’s already injured back.  A younger couple, Paula and Jason, also from Australia joined us.  All the members of our group are well traveled and you might imagine the great travel tales that buzzed around the table.  The conversation was enhanced by Renate’s excellent German meal of quiche appetizer, schnitzel, spätzle, side veg and an unusual  grape soufflé.  

 

From 10PM until about 2AM, we will be on the lookout for Northern Lights in the teepee.   Our “aurora host” is a young Frenchman named 

Niko.  Niko has a fire going in the teepee and offers mint tea, cocoa and frozen marshmallows to roast.  We opt for some tea to keep warm.  No lights yet.  Barry and I had gotten up at 2:45AM in San Francisco to get to our early flight this morning.  The lack of sleep was beginning to slow us down.  We decide to go back to our cabin and rest a little, Niko promises to call us if the lights appear.  I leave all t

he blinds open and we leave on the first layer of long underwear and socks for our nap. Snow clothes are laid out on the sofa and our boots are open and ready at the door.  Sleep came hard and fast.   When I awake at 2AM, I don’t see any smoke coming from the teepee.  I cherish the view of the moonlight on the snow, the blue and gray shadows and the absolute silence. I have never experienced a landscape quite like this one.  My beloved rolls over and pulls the comforter closer to his neck.  I close the blinds and go back to sleep.  

December 1, 2017

We dress for breakfast and crunch through the icy snow in the twilight of the northern morning to the dining room.  Renate has a typical European breakfast with cold ham, some cheese, fruit, breads, fruit garnished yogurt  and a soft boiled egg.  She teaches us to use a German egg cracker which we had never seen before.   The half domed area of the cracker is placed on top of the egg which is standing in an egg cup.  Then the especially fun part, we raise a weighted ball from above  the dome to fall upon the dome, twice.  The result is that, when you gently twist off the dome, a nice round opening is made and part of the shell removed.  Renate explains that she boils the eggs for 7 minutes (we will try a little less for a softer yolk) and that she puts a pin into the egg so that it won’t crack.  I check these things out and order them on Amazon.  A fun, new kitchen toy with a travel connection!

 

There’s time for adding more layers of clothing when we return to our cabin, including the gear that we got from Wolfgang and Renate.    I check my iPhone to find that it is 4° F, pretty chilly to me.   Marcelle, a diminutive French speaking woman picks up our Aussie lady buddies and ourselves to take us to the dog sledding area.  Marcelle barrels down the icy road, yet easily brakes for a doe that crosses the road. I feel that I am in good hands.  We get to see more of this snowy land during the 40 minute drive.  

 

When we arrive at Alayuk Adventures, it looks like a movie set to me of “miner’s shack in the Yukon.”  Inside it is actually very nice, though the faint smell of the composting toilet is a little off-putting.   It seems a little colder here.  Marcelle Fressineau & Gilles Proteau live here year around and I learn that Marcelle has run the Iditarod, possibly several times? Gilles is a 60-something fellow, he looks a little rough, is heavily accented in his speech,  with a long, full white beard.  He couldn’t play part of a French-Canadian trapper in a movie, because he would look to cliche!  Marcelle is Swiss and her partner, Giles is from Quebec.  Both of them, as well as nearly all their staff, are speaking French during our whole time with them.  They give us heavier clothes than the clothes that we already have.  They also give us wonderful heating pouches for our mittens and stick on heating pads for the tops of our feet.  I have on thin winter silks under shirt and long pants, heavier 32 below costco pants, corduroy pants, insulated snow farmer john’s, a cotton turtleneck, a wool pullover sweater, heavy HEAVY coat, a fleece headband, a fleece hat with a face cover attached to it, a heavy fleece scarf and a set of gloves and a heavy set of mittens attached to a rope that goes behind my neck.  

Now dressed not only for the Yukon, but I think also for deep space, we head outside to the cacophony of dog barking.  Nearly all the dogs come forward to be petted, only a few stay inside their little kennels.  The literature on Alayuk says that they have 45 dogs, it sounds like they are all hoping to go sledding today.  Marcelle will take me in the lead sled, Barry and his driver are behind me, the Australian ladies behind them.   The helpers get the dogs hooked up to the four sleds that are going out and I enter a state of wonderment.  Though Barry and I went sledding on a glacier in Alaska a few years ago, this experience was even more exciting.  

 

We travel through the forest, around bends, alongside a frozen river and over a frozen lake.  The dogs are tearing up the trail, they continue to race along as they occasionally take bites of snow along the way. I took out my phone to take photos a few times and immediately plunged my hands back into my mittens and the warming pack. We stop at a halfway point and I take my phone from inside my farmer John’s.  It won’t go on, black screen.  Shit, I hope that I haven’t lost my photos!   My eyelashes stick together, frozen shut from the cold. The men drivers have iced over beards.   I love every minute of the sledding, but decline to take over the driving of the sled, not believing that I could control these amazing animals.  Honestly,  I also don’t want to delay our return.  After a couple of hours, I find that I was ready to get back into the warm cabin, hot tea and warm fingers.  Confirming that Iditarod racing is not on my bucket list.

 

Relief! Upon return to our cabin, I plug in my phone and it starts working again.  Though the battery is nearly dead, there is a heartbeat!  I Google the whole extreme cold and iPhone and find it is a “thing”.  I will keep it warmer next time, in a few more layers closer to me.    

 

The stone massage and the Finnish sauna are so delightful!  I fall asleep on a lounge chair outside of the sauna and I think that I dream of flying over the snow.

 

Tonight, we sit in the teepee again, hoping to see the Aurora Borealis.  The forecast isn’t very promising though.  Niko is off tonight and Wolfgang is the host.  Barry and I try frozen marshmallows over the fire in the teepee.  I don’t really like marshmallows, but the experience of roasting a frozen one is pretty fun.  I am reminded of the old joke about the three eskimos who are sitting in an igloo.  Barry delivered the joke to the group.

 

One eskimo says, “It was so cold in my igloo last night that my spit froze mid air and dropped to the ground. “

 

The next eskimo say, “Well, it was so cold in my igloo last night that when I peed, it froze in an arc of ice.”

 

“Well!”, says the last eskimo, “it was so cold in my igloo last night…Well, let me show you.”  He went over to one side of the igloo and brought back an ugly, blue-black chunk of ice and threw it into the fire. [here, you must insert a loud fart sound]

 

Wolfgang and the Aussie ladies laugh heartily and I am warmed to find that others have the same juvenile sense of humor that I have.

 

Sadly, no lights tonight.  Barry and I give up around midnight, I think.  Maybe later in the morning?  We still have hope.

 

December 2, 2017

It’s colder today.  At zero degrees it’s the coldest that I’ve experienced, and then we drive out to The Yukon Wildlife Preserve.  It is a government owned wildlife park of over 700 acres and houses 13 species of mammals from Northern Canada in there natural environment.  Today, their natural environment is -27℃= -16.60000℉. I confirm this with Barry, is that the temperature that is on the car’s thermometer?  Yup.  I have always wondered what -16°F felt like, now I know.  The universe allowed me to really “get to the bottom” of what this is like because I have to use the restroom.  Thinking that the potty was in the little heated cabin where Renate got our tickets, I am told, no, no, the toilet is an outhouse.  It’s a cute little log outhouse and I’m sure that it will be nice and warm inside.  No, it’s a real outhouse.  It’s a frozen shit pit with a disgusting toilet seat and a frozen concrete floor.  The one saving grace is that there’s a baby changing station where I can put my layers of clothing to get to ready to pee.  Straddling the frozen pit, my most sensitive parts exposed to subzero temperatures, I have an appreciation of cold which  I never experienced before.  Blessedly, unlike the eskimos in our joke, my pee pee fell down in liquid form and I redress as quickly as my frozen little fingers would allow.  Outside with the others in my group, even my dancing around can’t warm me and I “sprint” to the office to see if they have warming pads that I can buy.  They do, I do and I am feeling much better. The smirking ranger has the nerve to tell me that it isn’t that cold today, where am I from San Diego or something. I grimace.  Damn, well, yes, I AM from San Diego, you sadistic bastard! – I think but don’t say.

 

Renate drives us from pen to pen, which would ordinarily be a very walkable distance.  The four of us guests get out with her to see some beautiful animals and then we get back into the car to warm up and drive to the the next pen.  It IS wonderful to see moose, musk ox, mountain goats, arctic foxes, bison, and lynx.

 

For the afternoon, we decide to take a field trip into the town of Whitehorse.  It’s larger than I thought it would be.  It is the capital of northwest Canada’s Yukon territory. There are museums, a visitor center, hotels, restaurants and gift shops.  Barry and I start with a nice warm lunch and we meet a young mom with a darling little daughter.  The mom tells me that they have just returned from a few years in a larger city back home to Whitehorse and they love it here.  I tell her about our plans and where we’ve been.  She recommends Takhini Hot Pools’ mineral springs. She says that locals go into hot springs at night, see the northern lights and freeze your hair into funny shapes.  It does sound fun, but I don’t think that we will have time.  Later, I look online to see that it might have been lots of fun…if we ever go to Whitehorse again.  

 

Inside a shop, Barry gets jokingly snide comment from a shopkeeper that he must not be from around here.  Locals don’t wear snow pants when it’s this warm.  Geez!  There are some cute things in shops and a local craft fair that is filled with people, but we don’t buy anything.  

 

The lowest probability of seeing the lights since we have been here are projected for today.  So, we aren’t too optimistic.  Sadly, they do not appear for us.

 

December 3, 2017

Last day here today.  Since our flight isn’t leaving until after 4PM, Wolfgang has arranged for Sky High Wilderness Ranch to pick us up, take us snowmobiling and then take us to the airport. With heartfelt hugs and goodbyes from Wolfgang and Renate, we go with the Aussie ladies to see the Fish Lake area on snow mobiles.  

 

After some orientation, Barry takes the handlebars on our snowmobile and we are following our guide, Kyle across the large frozen Fish Lake. Kyle tells us that the ice is nearly thick enough for them to bring out their ice fishing shacks and that the locals will be drilling through the ice into the lake to catch fish.   We see some tracks, but no wildlife.  We climb up a mountain on the trails and the views below us are spectacular.  We take lots of photos and  I try to remember every detail, it is so stunning.

At the top of the mountain, there is a car stuck in the snow.  Two young guys (one in just a sweatshirt and the other in a light jacket) are using snow shovels to try to release themselves.  I can see a couple of little kids in the car.  Barry and Kyle try to give them a hand, pushing on the car, but it is well and stuck.  The guys say they are sure that they can dig themselves out.  Kyle tells the people that he will return and takes us back to the ranch.  

Kyle tells us later how irresponsible it is to be in that area in a car, especially with little kids. There’s no way that they can drive down the mountain. They will go up to evacuate them later.  It’s not too cold right now, but will be much colder soon.  It brings home how there isn’t room for poor judgement in this environment.

 

Back at the airport we are flying out to Vancouver with four fellow adventurers:  Susan and David from Texas, Sue and Bev from Sydney.  (We said goodbye to Paula and Jason yesterday, they are now in Hawaii on their way back to Australia).  We have a few hours and enjoy a meal at the airport together.  Poutine (French fries, cheese curds and brown gray from Quebec), pierogi (small filled dumplings from Eastern Europe), fish and burgers are on the unusual menu.  

 

We switch planes in Vancouver and go on the shortest flight I know of, 12 minutes to Victoria.  The check in, cabin crew talks, waiting for runway times are much longer than the flight.  We check in to Brentwood Bay Resort and Spa and enjoy a fireplace, a view and much warmer temperatures.  It’s only a little colder than at home in Sacramento!

 

Waterfire, Sleepy Hollow, Villages and Mansions!

We drive from Camden to Providence, Rhode Island for Waterfire.  Waterfire is an art installation on the three rivers of Providence.  It consists of nearly 100 braziers with wood fires burning over the water.  Some small boats circulate with passengers and some tend to the fires.  There is music, food and entertainers.  There are 17 lightings scheduled for 2017 and we will see the second to the last.  

 

Once we reached our inn, Old Court B&B.  We were pooped out from the drive and it didn’t help that we were on the third floor, no elevators.  We just grabbed what we needed from the trunk and headed for the shower!  The B&B was an easy walk to Waterfire and we enjoyed the music and fun.  Though I wouldn’t fly out specifically to see this, it was fun to see.  It’s different.  Unfortunately, we don’t have much time to see Providence on this trip.  There are some interesting museums and the Rhode Island School of Design was just around the corner from our room.  I think it would be fun to visit Providence again.  

 

Sunday,  10/1/17 – Monday 10/2/17 Back to Newport, Rhode Island

 

It’s an easy 50 minute drive to Newport. We were here less than two weeks ago, on the Princess cruise.  That day, we spent by the harbor and on Rose Island.  Now we have a few days on our own! We opt for membership to the Preservation Society of Newport County which gives us admission to all their mansions and we hope to see several of them! We certainly made a dent in the list.  We toured:  The Breakers, The Elms, Marble House, Rosecliff, Isaac Bell House, and The Hunter House.  All were interesting to see, the first of the three are huge estates that were built during the gilded age.  They are lavish and over the top!  The conspicuous consumption here is a testament to wealthy Americans desire to be not just rich, but royal.  The homes say, “Feel impressed, and intimidated.”   Like Hearst’s Castle in California or the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC. they borrow their bling from European palaces and chateaus.   The mansions were breathtaking.  It’s fun to imagine what it would be like to be that wealthy, but there was more than one quote that showed that at least for some of the owners, money wasn’t the key to happiness.  

 

The Isaac Bell House was a large, impressive house,  but much less grand than the previous three.  I imagined where I would put my furniture in this house.  It was human scale and really unique.  The last place that we toured, The Hunter House, was much older, 1748.  It was built right in the heart of the busy port of Newport during colonial times.  It wreaked history, the stories it could tell!    

 

We got a chance to walk along Cliff Walk.  It is a 3.5-mile (5.6 km) public access walkway that borders the shore line and is below some of the gilded age mansions.  The views are wonderful, and the walk is well used.  

 

Tuesday,  10/3/17 Historic Massachusetts – Deerfield

 

We have a drive back to Massachusetts today and plan a couple of stops.  The first is Historic Deerfield, which is unusual in that that most of the structures here were built here.  Deerfield shows what life was like 300 years ago, how difficult it was to stay alive.  Many of the reinactors talk about how the inhabitants survived a horrible Indian attack, and that they were on the edge of the wilderness.  We learned that the early settlers cleared 75% of the forested area to set up farms.  Today approximately 75% of the area is reforested.   I have a chance to card wool, spin it and try to weave.  Barry tries out tools in the carpenters workshop and admires the craftsmanship and labor needed to make the furniture that they have on display.  We both enjoy history and this place is the right scale and is relaxed and fun.  I love this geeky stuff and would recommend it!

 

Late in the afternoon we had planned to go to Amherst, (I had even researched a great pizza place there),  but we decide to save it for another trip.  We head back toward Sturbridge for a couple of nights. I learn that we are near Worcester and that I have been publicly pronouncing it incorrectly, it is  “Wister” – Geeze, really!?  That’s as bad as the Brits mangling location names just to make tourists feel stupid! 🙂

 

Wed 10/4/17 Sturbridge and Sleepy Hollow!

 

Our night in the well reviewed Old Sturbridge Village Inn and Lodges was OK, but by morning the noisy road noise was putting me out of my colonial mood.  We are cheered by the increased autumn colors that are arriving and looking forward to seeing another historical village.  Sturbridge is more theme park than Deerfield was, though not at all off putting!  It also represents a later time period, the 1830s. It is full of reenactors and great buildings to see.  One that really impressed me, food related:), was a typical breakfast for the farmers of the time.  It smelled delicious, but when we got close to it, it was filled with flies.  She said, well, that’s how it would have been at the time.  Geez, we just passed a farmyard filled with animal shit, I KNOW where those flies have been.  They were sturdier people back then!

This evening we are going to come back to Sturbridge Village for “The Sleepy Hollow Experience”.  As per their website:  Sleepy Hollow Experience is an immersive, outdoor theatrical experience that reimagines Washington Irving’s iconic 1820’s tale. They started it last year and every performance was sold out.  So, a few months ago, I set my alarm for 3AM (6AM EST)  so that I could get tickets for us for this evening’s performance as soon as they went on sale online.  

 

It is worth it!  This is so well done!  The performers are extremely talented, the production is very, very well done.  The sound and lighting were great.  The BEST part is that you can walk through the story in a village that is authentic to the settling of the book.  They have an intermission time in which you are the Van Tassel’s party.  The actors come into the audience and play period games.  The finale is the headless horseman galloping through the covered bridge after Ichabod, as the audience is lined up against the walls.  Chilling…

 

HERE’S THE VIDEO FROM THEIR WEBSITE, TAKE A LOOK>

 

 

 

Thursday,  10/5/17 NYC and Home

 

An uneventful drive back to NYC, turn in the car at La Guardia.  A long, but not horrible flight and we get home just after midnight on Friday, 10/6/17. Such good memories, so many plans on what to see next!

Here’s the movie from the last leg of the trip.

 

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Schooner Mary Day, 4 Days on Penobscot Bay

Schooner Mary Day
Denise walking in Isle au Haut, Maine

At 4pm we can go on board the Schooner Mary Day.  We will spend the night onboard, we can come and go as we’d like until we leave in the morning.  We will be on our own for dinner. The other passengers are nearly all retirees and there is one particularly charming lady traveling with her husband,  who I would guess is in her 80s.   She has been on this ship 13 times before.  She and the Captain, named Barry, have quite a flirty verbal back and forth.  Both my Barry and I find the other passengers to be of great good will and have shining outlooks.  https://schoonermaryday.com/#home

 

The heads, two of them, are on the deck.  There is a “shower” in one of the heads.  The instructions are that we should step down into the head, cover the toilet paper and air freshener, use the shower head on the side wall (it has a flexible hose).   I don’t see how you could keep a towel dry in there, let alone maneuver around or have a robe ready when you need it.  MMmmmm When we go out to dinner, we make a run to the drug store in Camden to get a huge package of baby wipes.  I don’t think I will be showering for a few days.

 

Barry and I are below deck, down a ladder.  We are sleeping in head to head bunks.  The hull of the ship curves over us and the only light in our very small cabin is from a hatch on the deck above our door.  There is a very small sink, and small shelves for our “stuff”.  This is “glamping”, as their brochure says.  It’s pretty rough, especially after the cruise ship and the wonderful inns that we have been staying in.  BUT we are on a glorious ship in one of the most beautiful places on earth.

 

Wednesday,  9/27/17  Sailing Penobscot Bay & “Lobster Island”

 

Come morning, there is excellent coffee on deck and we have an amazing breakfast in the galley.  I am anxious to see what this will all be about.  It’s foggy and cooler today.  We are out of the harbor in no time. Members of the small crew climb up the riggings and glorious sails unfurl.  We, the passengers, are enlisted to pull lines to help.  Now underway,  photos do not do the scenery justice.  It reminds me of Puget Sound, but there are lobster floats all over and smatterings of light houses on small islands.  

 

Captain Barry warns us that there is no itinerary, but that we will arrive back in Camden on Saturday.  That’s all the information that he will give regarding where are we going.  In the early evening, he does let us know that we will be going ashore for a lobster bake.  He has a lots of fun about giving us a HEADs up in planning aHEAD before we GO ashore because there is no HEAD and so WEE should GO aHEAD and use the HEAD.   It is a small, uninhabited island. My Barry and I dig out the rubber boots that we purchased for this trip and are ready for the row to some island that Captain Barry will only call Lobster Island.  We are one of the first passengers there and I see our captain and cook add the live lobsters to the two huge pots of steaming sea water, throw in potatoes, corn and then use a pitchfork to pile seaweed over the top.  Too bad that not everyone could see this.

 

My Barry and I explore the island a little.  We step onto spongy ground, mushrooms at our feet, pines all around us.  It’s like a memory of a fairytale, a deep, dark forest.  When a fallen log blocks our path, we climb over and investigate more.  The fog is getting heavier and I imagine bears behind the trees.  We can also hear our travel companions popping wine corks and smell the lobster.  We get back to the beach to see some of the crew setting up the meal into a gourmet mandala – a bed of seaweed, a ring of lobsters, a ring of corn and potatoes.  We all worship at the sight of it. We aren’t given pliers to crack the claws, but I look around me and see other people digging in.  The shell is so soft that I can just peel it off.  This is the sweetest, most tender lobster that I have ever had in my life.  I could weep, that no other lobster will be as good.  When the crew is coming around to try to get rid of the leftover lobster (Leftover lobster, ha!), I take another claw and my Barry goes for another lobster and claw! He enjoyed his meal too.  

 

Back onboard, we somehow eat more.  Cookie has made blueberry squares that are slightly salty and not too sweet.  Some decaf coffee to warm our hands as we have conversations with fellow passengers about the Galapagos Islands, Bhutan and northern lights in Iceland. Barry and I return to our little, little cabin as the crew is singing and the woodfire stove is heating up the ship.

 

Barry on deck.

 

Th 9/28  Sailing Penobscot Bay & Environs

I have found that during the night I can make it to head on deck and not be grossed out!  For one thing, it is always spotless.  More importantly, there’s a great peacefulness that comes with climbing up the ladder to look up to see millions of stars above my head.  It. Is. So. Quiet.   I return to my snug, little bunk and can hear the low snoring of people in other cabins.  Smiling, contented, I easily go back to sleep.

 

Another great breakfast! Then, Captain Barry tells us that the sailing will be great today.  Though there is a small craft warning, we will have some great wind.  

 

“Wind will blow butter off a biscuit!”, says he.

 

Nearly everyone gets involved in raising the sails.  We work on the port and starboard sides, the throat and the foot.  There’s problem with the foresail, a line is afoul.  Crew member, Paul from the Bronx is up there for 20 minutes in a harness working lines and getting it straight.  It sure makes makes me nervous, but he fixes it and comes down.  

 

The heeling of the boat had everyone moving around in a stooped posture.  I hear things shifting in the galley and we are flying on the water.  The water glistens and we race past lobster floats and pine covered islands.  The sailing is transformative, a meditation, so brilliant and above care.

 

Later in the afternoon, we stop at Deer Isle for a walk.  Homes along the water look so picturesque. I want step inside one of them, and sit in a comfortable chair to look back at us in the sailboat.  After rowing ashore, it is great to stretch our legs and see the beginnings of change of colors on the trees.  That evening there is pork loin, a huge salad, fresh bread, home cooked pies. We are fed again.  

 

Cooler now, we return to our damp, small cabin.  The scratchy, red wool blanket from the foot of my bunk now makes it’s way up over my comforter to just below my chin.  

 

F 9/29/17 Sailing Penobscot Bay & Environs

 

The wake up call of the crew swabbing the decks above us is the familiar routine now.  It’s our last full day onboard.  The “shower” that they showed us a few days ago is looking slightly more inviting, but I think I can hold out until tomorrow.  There is the amiable morning chatter with the other passengers.  One fellow from Maine explained to me how to understand the Maine accent.  He said that they like to conserve their “R”s.  As the Boston accent that I’ve heard, Park your car in the Harvard Yard – use no Rs …..  pak ya ca in the havad yad

 

It’s another great day of sailing, terrific wind and not too cold.  Toward the mid afternoon, a lobster boat is spotted on a closeby island that seems to be in trouble.  I can’t describe how impressed I am with how quickly and professionally the Mary Day crew reacted.  The first mate took a dinghy out to help, the captain called the coast guard.  It seems that this lobsterman went out alone to check his traps, fell overboard and could not get back into his boat.  The boat was ramming the rocks, motor on idle.  The water is very cold and the captain later said that the lobsterman was getting weaker by the minute due to hypothermia.

 

To get a little stretch today, we anchored in Isle au Haut.  It has a population of 73, only about 40 stay through the winter and there are six kids in the school.  There’s a very, very small post office, a sweet New England church, a small lighthouse and a store that is opened a few hours a week.  The scenery, of course is great.

 

Sa 9/30  Our Last Morning on the Schooner, on to Waterfire in Rhode Island

 

How does “Cookie” do it on a small, WOODBURNING ship’s stove! I have the chance to talk with her a little.  She gets up at 4:30 to get the fire going and has learned to rotate things around so that they will cook evenly.  She is just a wonderful cook, among the dishes that we had that were great were:  Scrambled eggs with onion & herbs (she turns off the heat and adds cream cheese!), cranberry muffins, piles of fruit, amazing bacon, pies, homemade ice cream, tons of cookies, blueberry pancakes, soups, chili, terrific salads, and that lobster bake…All of it was better than the cruiseship and she does it on a wood stove!

 

We enjoyed our time talking with fellow passengers from Maine, Massachusetts, Illinois, Washington, and Florida.  Everyone was so easy to get along with.  The crew was stellar.  I have never seen people work so hard and have such wonderfully helpful attitudes.  They slept in bunks right off the galley, barely crawl spaces and always wore a smile.  The first mate was a real cutie and couldn’t have been nicer or more attentive.  Our little 80+ year old lady was catered to and helped all over.  The captain seemed to have a pretty dry sense of humor, but I wish that he has talked more about the areas where we were and maybe some stories about previous sailing trips.  This was the last cruise of the year, maybe he was ready to give it up.  The Mary Day would go into dry dock shortly and he did talk about all the work that he had to catch up when he was home.    

 

 

 

Mystic to Camden

Barry in Camden, Maine.

Sunday,  9/24/17  Getting Outta Brooklyn!

 

What joy to wake up in New York, the view is glorious from our balcony.  This is the stunning part of a cruise, to awake in a new place!  Boats are busy intersecting the river below us, Ellis Island with the Statue of Liberty is off just to our left, Governor’s Island right next to us,  Manhattan is out in front of us on this unseasonably warm morning.  We don’t even wait for breakfast, but grab our own luggage and disembark before the people who needed porters are scheduled to get off the ship.  We taxi to our car rental, passing joggers, bikers and walkers out enjoying a gorgeous Sunday morning.

OK, L.A. boy, Barry Hogan, can get us out of Brooklyn, through New York City!  We cross the Brooklyn Bridge, (where we walked across, was that last year?)  Google maps routes us along FDR Drive, we skirt Manhattan along the East River and the view is stunning.  We cross RFK Bridge, go through the Bronx, and we are nearly through.  However, I only partially appreciate it, as most of my attention is focused on navigating and clutching the armrest on my car door.  There’s lots of construction and the drivers are at least as crazy as the ones in L.A, weaving in and out.  We accidentally get off on to the wrong highway, but take a leap of faith that google maps “is on our side”, enter a bunch of road construction and then end up on the right highway.  Phew!  We made it into Connecticut, where everything is calmer.  My heart rate lowers.   Well, except that the EZ Pass that came with the car doesn’t seem to be registering as we drive by the toll booths.  I glance back more than once to see if police are after us for avoiding tolls.

 

We enjoy the Native American names that mingle with English ones on the road signs.  I admit to using  “ Tonto speak” to see how they feel in the mouth. “Woonsocket”, “Hammonasett”,”Naugatuck”.  I wonder if Easterners enjoy “La Jolla”, “Pennasquitos”, “El Cajon”.

 

It’s still before check-in time when we arrive at the Steamboat Inn in Mystic Connecticut, but our room is ready!  As advertised, we are right on the water, and it’s an easy walk to explore Old Mystic Seaport.  On the way, we pass some charming homes with such pleasant views of the water.  I note to myself to see how outrageous the prices are, and find later that they are pricy, but not outragous.  Wonder if we could rent one some summer?

 

Mystic Seaport is an open air museum, the largest maritime museum in the United States, I am surprised to find.  A 19th-century village is made up of over restored 60 buildings (many that were moved here) and a large collection of historic sailing ships.  They also happen to have antique cars on display when we visit, so Barry is especially pleased.  Though the displays and the scenery are wonderful, the heat and humidity are taking their toll.  We find a place with local ale and calamari.  Barry surprises me by ordering a pork belly sandwich and I take a “bite”.  

 

We have no room for dinner and decide to spend the evening relaxing in our sweet BnB.  This sweet inn is right on the water, RIGHT ON THE WATER. At 8pm, as I contentedly page through my Yankee magazine, sipping sherry and a wonderful chocolate cookie, enjoying the view of passing boats, when a large schooner arrives to dock just below our wall of windows. I can see a score of tourists eye to eye and hear full conversations. This is a little too close maybe?  

 

Sadly, we have to leave in the morning.  We have a 5.5 hour drive tomorrow, but there is more to see here.

 

Monday,  9/25/17  Checking Out More of Maine

 

Ogunquit, Maine is our first stop today.  It’s three hours away from Mystic.  It doesn’t disappoint, it’s really beautiful  We take the Walk Marginal Way footpath and swoon at the view of the coastline and homes along the way.  I would love to “summer” here.  Though on this particular day it’s cooler in Sacramento, I think.  The weather is still warm and humid, due to the hurricanes in the south.  

 

Barry is interested in stopping at the L.L.Bean campus in Portland, Maine.  I had stopped here almost 20 (!) years ago when Caroline and I were speakers at a conference in New Hampshire.  Since that visit, the huge store that I remember is now surrounded by several other huge L.L.Bean stores.  One is for home goods, one is for adventure/sports, and they have a mall of other national brand stores adjacent to them.  We bought a few souvenirs to be shipped home.  Then off on the road again.  We had planned to stop in Boothbay, but decided to just go to Camden where we would stay the night.  Boothbay will be on the itinerary for another trip, because it looks heavenly.

 

We are staying in the Maine Stay Inn in Camden, Maine.  It’s in one of the oldest houses in Camden and run by Italian innkeepers.  They’ve done a wonderful job of decorating and are very hospitable. We get some good suggestions from them for more things to see and do.  They suggest a restaurant on the water that we can walk to and we SPLIT the lobster dinner and add one lobster a la carte.  Just wonderful, so “Maine-y”!  

 

We have to repack our bags to fit into a traditional duffle bag, no wheels to board the schooner tomorrow.

 

Tu 9/26/17 Rockland and Camden, Maine and Board the Schooner

 

We go up to Mt. Battie to see the view of Camden and Penobscot Bay from above.  Just, just, beautiful! It’s a little too warm for a big hike, but we enjoy the view from up here.

 

Penobscot Bay

“All I could see from where I stood

Was three long mountains and a wood;

I turned and looked the other way,

And saw three islands in a bay…”

Edna St. Vincent Millay

 

We investigate the cute shops in Camden and then head over to Rockland, which isn’t too far.  We have a chance to stroll through the Farnsworth Art Museum.  It features lots of work done by Andrew Wyeth.  Another of the artists whom I enjoyed very much was Marguerite Zorach.  Her modern embroideries are so colorful, interesting and rich.

 

(When I got home I learned some very interesting things about her. She was born in Santa Rosa, just up the road from us!  She was one of a handful of women students who were accepted to Stanford in 1908.  She exhibited in Paris in the early 1900s and socialized with Pablo Picasso, Gertrude Stein, Henri Rousseau and Henri Matisse.  She traveled to Jerusalem, Egypt, India, Burma, China, Hong Kong, Japan and Hawaii during 1911-1912.  She did many paintings of Yosemite and is also known for her textile and embroidery works, which I was drawn to at the Farnsworth.)

 

I fell in love with a fabric shop, Clementine.  I purchased a bunch of fabric that I may never use.  Also In an antique shop down the street, I loved a wooden antique drying rack like one that I saw in the Rose Island Lighthouse in Newport, RI.  Deciding that it was too bulky and heavy to carry or ship, I, regretfully, leave it.   

 

 

7 Day Canada New England Cruise

Denise on deck

THE CROWN PRINCESS CRUISE

Saturday,  9/16/17 Red-eye and Boarding the Crown Princess

Barry and I are boarding a red-eye flight at 11:36PM from Sacramento to JFK.  The seats are cheap and we are too.  It really wasn’t a bad flight, but when we get into NYC, we are ready to settle into a nice stateroom.  The problem that we have encountered before and face again with this trip is that we arrive at 8:01AM and we are not scheduled to board the Crown Princess until 1:30PM.

 

I have researched things that we may do with our time, (store luggage at JFK and go for a tour, check into a local hotel for a few hours, go to a gym…)  but have that nagging understanding that we will be grouchy by late morning and no sight or activity will seem “ok”, except a quiet place to rest our sexagenarian bones in our cabin. Therefore we sit in the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal with other pretty grouchy sexagenarians, septuagenarians, some octogenarians and a sprinkling of youngins.  We wait until we can board, and they let us onboard at about noon.  

 

Crown Princess carries over 3,000 passengers and 1,200 crew.  If there is a line, one of us cues up and the other checks to see for what we are waiting.  Though we officially earn elite status in the Princess loyalty program at the end of this cruise, I can’t say it’s my favorite way to travel, but as Dad says, “It’s better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick”.  

 

 

 

 

Monday,  9/18/17  Newport, Rhode Island

 

I find Newport’s history is rich and filled with drama.  There are stories about Baptists, Jews and Quakers settling here to gain religious freedom.  (I pick up the book, American Jezebel in a shop to read more about Anne Hutchinson, a colonial founding mother.  I find it fascinating and inspiring).  Sadly,  the whaling trade is also part of Newport history.  Pirates?  Yes, they had those too.  Most detestable of all,  I learned that sixty percent of slave-trading voyages launched from North America originated from tiny Rhode Island during colonial times.  They were part of the abhorrent “triangle trade”, which  I remembered well from teaching fifth grade.  Caribbean sugar and molasses was grown with slave labor and shipped to Newport for rum production.  In 1764, Rhode Island had about 30 rum distilleries and 22 were in Newport.   The rum was then traded in West Africa for more slaves.  We are told during our tour later that the slave trade was ended first here.  

 

We are in port for just the day until we return on our own later on our trip.   We focus on the harbor, Narragansett Bay and Rose Island.  Barry and I walk in the Thames St. area to see oh so cute nautical themed shops and enjoy the ocean air and sunshine.  I text my BFF, to let her know that she would love Newport and could easily decorate her whole house with just a stop or two here.  When it’s time for lunch, we find a fairly touristy but fun place, The Gas Lamp Grille and have our first lobster roll of the trip.  Paired with a seasonal ale, it was glorious.  

 

In the early afternoon, we meet for our tour.  We boat around the harbor a little and learn about the America’s cup history.  Newport was the location for the America’s cup race from 1930-1983.  Our guide then made many disparaging comments about the Australians, who took (or stole, as he said) the cup in 1987.  I’m proud to say that we were living in San Diego from 1988-1995 and remember well Dennis Conner’s sunburned face all over town as he and his crew celebrated the San Diego Yacht Club wins, until the Kiwis took it.  

 

We went by the site of the Newport Jazz Festival, where over 10,000 people gather for jazz and folk music. We also hear about Goat Island, where 26 pirates were buried in 1723 after they were tried and hung.  There are homes that we see from the water that were built for the rich and famous.  We see parts of Fort Adams and think we may go back to tour it another time.  So much history!   The best part of the tour is going ashore to explore Rose Island.  It has a wonderful light house in which you can stay over night and be a lighthouse keeper, it also has spooky stone barracks that were built in the late 1790s.  These barracks were also used to store explosives during WWII.  Of course, the guide said the barracks were haunted.  (goosebumps) Today the island is a wildlife refuge and home to migrating birds including little blue herons, black crowned night herons, great and snowy egrets, and glossy ibises. It was a really interesting place, and I would like to consider staying in that lighthouse one day.  https://www.roseisland.org

 

As we return to our cruise ship, the guide tells us that the coast guide has been issuing a tropical storm warning.  Boats are returning to harbor and their flags are coming down.  Though the devastating hurricanes in the south of the US aren’t expected to be anywhere near us in New England, the effects from them are definitely felt up here.  It is unseasonably warm and humid.   

 

Tuesday, 9/19/17  Boston

 

Being in port for just the one day, we decided to see two places where we haven’t visited yet,  Peacefield,  known as Old House, an historic home formerly owned by President John Adams and his family and is now part of the Adams National Historical Park and The Museum at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library.  We are on an old geezer tour through the cruise ship, which is fine today because the cruise terminal is out in a new seaport area, not especially close to Boston downtown.  This area is full of new modern buildings and is a new desirable neighborhood.  To reach the Adams house, we travel through the “Big Dig” Tunnel.  This is part of a project that was planned in 1982, expected to be completed in 1998, but it wasn’t finished until 2007 and was estimated to have cost 22 billion dollars, 190% over the estimated cost. Cost and delays were attributed to design flaws, substandard materials, archaeological findings, criminal arrests and even the death of a worker.   I remember trying to drive through the construction years ago, and remember the controversy at that time. What a mess!   It goes underwater part of the route and a blue strip in the tunnel lets you know when you are underwater.  That isn’t especially comforting to me.  They are still experiencing massive leaks of salt water that need to be pumped out.  

 

Barry is a big John Adams fan, and we have to see the Adams home!  It is in Quincy, pronounced Kwin-zee, no c sound.  We are both surprised to find that Quincy is a manufacturing area.  In fact, Fore River Shipyard is in Quincy and it is possible that the “Kilroy was here” cartoon originated here.   During WWII, James J. Kilroy, a shipyard inspector, marked the rivets that he had checked on ships as they were being built.  His markings were in areas that were unreachable after the ship was completed.  Therefore the Kilroy markings fed the myth that Kilroy could go where others could not, and it also leant a measure of assurance that the ships were well inspected and safe.  

 

Our first stop on this rainy day is to the Adams house in Quincy.  Sadly, we are not permitted to take photos inside.  It looks like a prosperous home of the late 1700s, but nothing extraordinarily grand, as you might describe Jefferson’s Monticello or Washington’s Mount Vernon.  It is humble and very human.  I was impressed by its simplicity and Adam’s life of service to American ideals.  

 

Adams is very much a vague historical figure, so to be able to see the Kennedy Library was a stark contrast.    Kennedy was assassinated when I was a kid, but I do remember him as a living human being.  The museum is an elegant  I.M. Pei-designed building on many acres along the Boston waterfront.  The exhibits feature television footage and a theater with a film about JFK.  We happen to be there during a temporary exhibit of 100 items that haven’t been displayed before to commemorate what would have been Kennedy’s 100th birthday.   Though rushed, I enjoy learning more about him and about Jackie Kennedy. I know that he was a womanizer, but I do appreciate his support of space exploration and science, as well as his efforts toward equal civil rights.  

 

After we are near our cruise ship, we consider going to Boston Fish Pier on our own.  However, it’s rainy and there’s lots of construction in the area.  So, we save it for another time when we visit Boston.

 

Wednesday,  9/20/2017  Bah Ha-Ba (Bar Harbor), not to Be!

 

Well, crap!  The weather prevents us from making a call into Bar Harbor.  We are stuck onboard today and our tour of historic lighthouses and Acadia National Park via a 90-foot jet-powered catamaran.  Then we were going to take an historic and scenic walk on our own along the Shore Path and into Acadia National Park.  Crap, crap!

 

 

Thursday,  9/2/17  St.John, New Brunswick (not to be confused with St. John’s Newfoundland)

 

We are at our northern most point of this trip, and there is just a kiss of autumn here.  I fear that we will not be seeing much autumnal color on this trip.  However, I do just adore it here.  I am especially enamored with our tour guide, Fay.  She is as folksy and cute as they come.  Quintessential Canadian in my mind.  She says “sorwy” for the smallest thing and has the greatest little stories that entertain us as we bus through areas of St. John.  

 

Fay wants to be sure that we see the reversing rapids, a noteworthy phenomenon on the Bay of Fundy, during high and low tides.  Therefore our first stop is to Fallsview Park to take a measure with cameras of the collision of the ocean tide from the Bay of Fundy where it meets the Saint John River.  At low tide the river empties into the bay causing a series rapids and whirlpools, when the tide rises it slows the river current and there is a slack tide, reversing the direction of the river. The differences in the water level is approximately 50 feet from low tide to high tide, reached over a six hour interval.  It is safe to to pass through the area by boat during slack tide.  The Bay of Fundy is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

 

We head toward the downtown area and see “Marigolds on Main”.  School children throughout the city plant marigold seeds in small paper cups and at an appointed time in June, the streets are closed down and all the kids come out to plan their marigolds.  It’s such a sweet idea.  In a small city with a population of 72,000, this seems like a wonderful idea.  I think that they especially enjoy the bright summer colored flowers since they have long, cold winters in which they average 9 feet of snow.  They recently had 15 feet in one year!  There are historic homes and modern buildings and McDonalds. Ugk

 

On the way to the next destination Fay continues to entertain us with stories about life in New Brunswick.  She beautifully describes tamarack trees that are covered with frost, and how they make homemade moose calls from tomato cans and skate laces then go try to find moose.  They have a tradition of  kitchen parties which are potlucks where everyone plays musical instruments and they all sing to keep cosy on cold nights. East Coast Canada has lots of musicians who credit their skills to these kitchen parties.  The small tight knit community in St. Martin, near where she lives, there are already two other women named Fay. One Fay was born there, so she is called Fay.  One Fay comes only during the summers so she is Summer Fay and our Fay is called Fay from Far Away because she was born in another Canadian province, though she’s lived in New Brunswick since college and has grown kids.  She talks about collecting dulse seaweed and how they use it for seasoning .  She talks about the retreat that she and her husband have started (He was a marriage and family counselor.  I found their website https://www.inthestillness.net )  I am absolutely charmed by her stories.  

 

Driving for about an hour in lovely countryside, we reach St. Martins. It’s a 200-year-old village with twin covered bridges  (Covered bridge make a wish or steal a kiss) , a small harbor and a lighthouse, and a total population of  283.  We are one of the tour busses that has overrun this adorable little town, I am enjoying the ambiance, but am embarrassed to be part of the invading hoard.  We drive to St. Martins Sea Caves and Beach. Over time, waves have carved caves out of the cliffs. We have a tourist lunch of  seafood chowder, rolls and homemade cookies. The food is good, but we have a view of the parking lot, not the water and the meal is served in disposable paper.  We walk along the beach to gather “wish rocks”.  They tell us “wish rocks” have a full ring of an opposite color marked into the stone.  (Upon our return, our grandkids aren’t too enchanted by this story, but I still have a few on my kitchen ledge.)

 

We end our tour at Old City Market, in the heart of Saint John, it’s the oldest working farmer’s market in Canada.   The market first opened in 1876 and withstood The Great Fire of 1877. Shipwrights built the market with a roof in the shape of a ship’s hull. We buy some dulse seaweed and hope to get it through customs.  Then we head back shortly before we pull up anchor and head to Halifax.  

Friday, 9/22/17 Halifax, Nova Scotia

It’s great to be in Halifax, the weather is a little chilly and the air is so fresh.  It is just the cusp of autumn.  We are docked near the Lord Nelson Hotel, built in 1927 which is one of those iconic Canadian Railroad hotels.  Our tour guide tells us that it takes six days to go across Canada by train, to arrive in Vancouver.  That gives me a better sense of how large this country is.  I have read a little bit about the beautiful hotels which were built to encourage train travel during the late 1800s and have stayed in the Empress in Victoria, British Columbia, seen from afar the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec.  I spent a little time trying to work out a rail trip to see more of these and enjoy the scenery along the way.  The packaged tours would really smash our travel budget, but maybe I can do a work around for a future trip. It would be great to stay in a few of these hotels and enjoy some kayaking or hiking as well.  Mmmm

 

Halifax is nicknamed the “City of Trees”, as is Sacramento.  This is especially interesting because there is only 5 feet of topsoil here, most of the city is built on solid rock.  It seems that this is also the city of colleges, there are seven universities.  On our last trip here many years ago, we enjoyed heaps of seafood and saw lots of young folks.

 

Our guide is a former high school history teacher, God help us, and is so of information I think that my brain will explode.  After an hour, I have to turn him off, but awake for just long enough for some of the quirkiest stories.  For instance, there are tons of McDonald’s here, they look just like McDonald’s in USA, but they all have jaunty maple leaves on the arches.  The menu is different, as in some other foreign McDonald’s.   Until this year, they used to sell lobster rolls that were a real bargain.  However, lobster became just a little too expensive this year to keep it on the menu.  They have harsher penalties for drunk driving and driving while texting, and smoking isn’t allowed in the car is a child under 16 is also a passenger, smart.

 

We are driving to Lunenburg, billed as “The Prettiest Town in Canada”.  There is a very sweet town on the way that makes scarecrows every fall that look like the royal family and some other celebrities.  The guide tells us that last year there was one with orange funny hair that resembled our president.  There was a collective moan in the tour bus.  I am comforted.  

 

We make a photo stop at Mahone Bay. Upon approaching it, I can see three pristine churches, very close to each other, in the most picturesque location.  It looks like a movie set .  There are Trinity United Church, St. John’s Lutheran and St. James Anglican.   The guide tells us that they are very well maintained because they have ties to Boxing Rock Brewers.  Ah, Divine grace.  They each have musical concerts as well and have their concert schedule posted online.  http://www.threechurches.com/venues.html

Lunenburg is a small town with a population of only 2,263. The village was built by the British government for German settlers, whom they needed to colonize North America.  Those pesky French were the larger presence in that part of Canada at the time.   The English couldn’t find enough of their own so, the sponsored Germans who would be loyal to the English. However, today, it is overrun with cruise ship tourists.  To spite this, it is a storybook town with impossibly green hillsides surrounding it.  The sailboats and historic homes make it a wonderful place to spend the day.  Barry and I enjoy walking around the town and duck into a crowded pub for a lobster roll and a pint. An older, bejeweled and well dressed lady allows us to share her table.  She shares that she is from British Columbia and we come to find that she is well traveled too. She’s been traveling on her own for quite awhile and we discover that we have some favorite destinations in common.  For our upcoming trip to Whitehorse, she insists that we go to a town called Dawson in Canada in or near Yukon.  I will have to check out her recommendation.   

 

After short lull in conversation, she erupts,  “Geez, your president!”

 

Here we go again!   As happened so often in Australia earlier this year, we reassure her that we didn’t vote for him and we hope he is somehow outta here soon.

 

We will have a day at sea before we disembark in NYC.  We’ve been seated at a table for eight this week, but have only been joined by two other people each night that we were dining there.  This was disappointing because we have met some interesting and lovely dinner companions on past cruises. In fact, the dining room was very sparsely inhabited each night that we were there.  I would guess that with a port nearly every day, lots of people go for a quicker meal elsewhere and don’t go in for the longer formal dinner.  Our companions are Wei and Bill.  They are Chinese, but have been in the USA for 30 years in St. Louis.  They are still big fans of their native land and we spend more that one meal getting tips on what to see there – go to Shanghai, being their most adamant suggestion.  Wei was also very interested in Chinese cooking and gave us recipes, which I would like to try.  Generally, they were not impressed with New England, which was too bad and weren’t really interested in travel in Europe or the rest of the world.  They were nice, but we didn’t exchange contact information with them.  

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Tasting All that LIfe has to Offer